LIMA PERU 2018 - 5 - DID HE ATTEMPT SUICIDE? FREE SPIRITED BARRANCO

I have completed my expedition on El Morro and am now ready to descend to El Salto Del Fraeil Restaurant, which I discovered from atop the mountain. It is literally right on top of the Ocean! Just as I am debating whether I will have to use the main road to get there or whether I can find a safe trail down, a family of bikers come along my left side and speed away on what seems to be a network of bike trails on the face of the hill.

A poor neighborhood with spectacular vistas to the south of El Morro in Chorrillos, their dog posing to me 

I have come to love decisions made in the spur of the moment; I leave the road and start hiking down using the bike trails. On the meandering path, the restaurant is playing hide and seek with me, but each time it emerges from around a boulder or a cliff, it is closer, more reachable and more inviting. In 15 minutes I am in the yard of the restaurant, a beautiful structure on top of a set of wild and jagged boulders sticking out of the ocean. On both sides of it from the road, is the wild Pacific beating up the rocky shore.
 

El Salto Del Fraeil Restaurant where I will soon have lunch by the Pacific 

Entering the facility, it looks like there are more servers than customers, but looking at the few tables that are occupied, this is a restaurant frequented by locals with money and taste. Despite my hiker attire, they treat me with respect, must be my white hair, again. They ask me whether I am “sola?”. Part of it is to decide on the size of the table they will assign me to, but from the expression on the young server’s face I can tell, there is more to this innocent question:

Restaurant close up, beautiful structure

 

Of course I am an unusual creature for men of especially developing countries. Here is a woman that looks like a granny with her white hair, who should be with her grandchildren, taken care of by her sons and their wives, according to developing country rhetoric. Instead here she is “sola” and with an unfitting attire, too casual for the restaurant, tennis shoes, backpack, tights instead of a dress, high heel shoes that the other two even elderly women in the restaurant are wearing. I am lucky with my attire they don’t tell me “We have to verify your credit card before allowing you in”! Again most likely out of respect for grannies…
 

The family of bikers that helped me find the trail network leading to the coast 

Kind people of Peru, I hope I have established an example for other at least middle aged, white haired hikers that even if one may look dusty, they may be allowed to eat in a good restaurant in Lima! I ask them whether I can sit by the window, they are happy to accommodate that, they might have been reassured to hear from my limited Spanish that I am not Peruvian. Who knows, they might now say in their minds “Oh, she must be a Gringa, all bets are off with Gringos…” I get a small table adjacent to the window overlooking the boulder. My server is very accommodating and opens the window for me. I’d like to listen to the sound of the ocean now that I am right on top of it.
 

The view of Pacific coast from the window next to my table at El Salto Del Fraeil Restaurant

 

I wonder when and how permission to build a restaurant here was obtained since it is the only such structure as far as I can see in both directions. It is on top of wild and harsh rocky coastal line; reminds me of the Eagle’s Nest in Southeast Germany in the high mountains of the Berchtesgaden National Park, Hitler’s hideout, which I had visited in 2005. However, this restaurant is situated on top of rocks where the land ends and sea takes over rather than where the sky takes over as is the case with Eagle’s Nest.
 

Eagle's Nest, Hitler's hideout in Berchtesgaden National Park in Germany

 

Lunch is exquisite with tiradito, slices of fish in lime juice covered with aji chille sauce. The only problem is it is too little! The waves clashing with the boulders piercing into the bosom of the ocean then washing over what they have just beat up as if streams of tears pouring down to their source lasting until the next embrace of the ocean almost take me away from this world… My server “wakes” me up and points out to the crowd down below on the mini cliff on which the restaurant sits. Looking out the window, I see a man in brown clothes airborne toward the water!

Restaurant from a distance, you can now understand why I reminisce it to Hitler's Eagle's Nest

Did he fall? Did he jump? Is this a suicide? In mini-horror,  for reassurance and with the amused expression on his face I wake up to the fact that there is a show down there this man is putting on… Sure enough, after a mini-fight with the waves that he wins, he climbs up the cliff holding onto a rope that has been hanging down. Once he is up a cap is passed around for the fee the spectators surely owe to the guy. He is wearing a brown long robe as if he is a monk, part of the show I bet, suggesting, he is bestowed with mystic powers.

Local showman ready to jump into hostile waves of the Pacific for spectators, he meditates for several minutes before jumping, that may just be part of the show, too...?

Initially, I wonder how in the world does he not freeze in this temperature, constantly being wet to his bones? However, after several more jumps I will notice that he has a wet suit underneath, that should make the difference. On my way out, I will see him chatting with his buddies, who are vendors selling a variety of nick knacks to local visitors, some of whom I assume come down here either only to watch this man or just to enjoy the vistas from this very spot. I can tell, they are all working class people…
 

Our diver wearing monk attire taking a break in front of the restaurant

 

Good thing, this man still has a strong body despite his age (he seems to be in his late 30s-early 40s), this love-hate relationship with the ocean, and the skill to win this fight with it every time he jumps. At least he has, so far… I wonder with a heartbreak if he likes this at all and if there will be a time that the ocean may claim him… I start walking along the Chorrillos coastal line, which is gradually climbing up to the northernmost hillside of El Morro, before it starts descending toward Barranco.
 

From the coastal cliffs of Chorrillos looking down at the mini bay 

On my way to Barranco I visit a private museum, Pedro de Osma Museum and MATE. I am not much impressed with either: The former is a private museum filled with Spanish era art full of and limited to religious and royal themes in the main house, all from 16th to 19th century. However, it has a small Andean collection, and a sizeable silver and gold collection, which are worth seeing. The more museums I visit in Peru, the more I understand why public museums are not that impressive. Private hands reached the earth much earlier than the government is the summary of what happened:

Chorrillos and its northern neighbor Barranco 

The good intentioned Peruvian private hands established foundations and museums in their own name and opened this treasure to visitors in their own country, kudos to them. Non-Peruvian collectors with probably some local collaborators let the treasure of this land reach foreign hands, hence Louvre, Metropolitan, British Museum, and Berlin museums have sizeable collections of South American cultures.

 

Pedro de Osma Museum from inner courtyard

MATE on the other hand is a museum where Mario Testino, a Peruvian photographer, who apparently photographed many celebrities including Princess Diana. Of all museums, least impressive for me, if you are short on time, easily skip this one. Barranco is another story! I just happened to it without knowing how I was going to explore it. There could be no better way to explore it, now that all is said and done: I am on the highest point of Chorrillos adjoining Barranco.

This is where I left the upper coastal promenade and headed down the steps following locals not knowing I would find Puente dos Supiros, the infamous bridge of spiritis

I can see there is a mini-valley between the hillside I am on and the next one, which should be Barranco proper. I can see there is a very interesting spot at the tip of the next cliff, on which there seems to be a restaurant or bar, in the yard of which some intriguing music is going on. I happen to see stairs going down the cliff I am on. A few people are going down the stairs and I follow always trusting local people choosing the best places of their own.

One of the murals on the walls surrounding the staircase leading to Puente dos Supiros


Good decision, I will find out soon. The steps turn into a lovely passage in fact surrounded with paintings on the walls, leading me to probably one of the most exciting places in Barranco. Street art with vendors displaying their art on blankets/tarps laid out right on the street on both sides line up a street some 0.5 km long underneath the Puente dos Supiros! Without knowing I was going there, I have found the bridge: Very simple but apparently favored by all alike. Very few non-locals are around, looking at appearances…
 

The street running below Puente dos Supiros is lined by local artists selling their creation on simple table tops or canvas spreads
 I happen upon several classical music concerts by young talented musicians, two violin players, one flute player, and another violin player along with a recorded orchestral music… Coins rain down on them at the end of each mini-concert they deliver. I enter what seems to be the most promising dinner venue, but no, as I pass through the terrace, the ambiance is not what I thought it would be. I want to be able to see the ocean. The very tip of the terrace with the ocean view is open for everybody’s strolling and enjoyment. That is good. No tables there, but there is trail going up higher on the cliff covered with thick grass and I take it. After the first terrace there is yet another passage to the last terrace, which actually takes me right adjacent to where the music was coming from!

Young violinists giving a delicious concert under the Puente dos Supiros

 

However, there is a high and tight fence consisting of poles, metal heavy chicken wire, and bushes! Can hear the music, but can’t see anything. That is OK, although my next move will be to find the way to get there, first I will devour this beautiful view and quiet and meditate. I am pleased that the hustle bustle of the street below is not able to reach up here. I am two “floors above the tip of the cliff where some of the visitors are strolling to enjoy the vistas.

 

Pacific Ocean from the cliff to the north of the Puente dos Supiros

Their marveling at the view is a whisper to my ears. I can even hear the soar of the ocean from such a distance. No wonder Limenos are so sensual, how can one not in this city with such vistas such stimulation of all senses with sounds, visuals, and touch… Everybody is so warm and expressive. Whenever I ask for directions, they touch my arm or back to show me the direction. I feel comfortable touching someone’s arm or shoulder taking leave of them… It feels like home…

Iglesia de Mercer behind Puente dos Supiros 

I close my eyes for a while and meditate with the sounds of the ocean, the chirps of the birds frequenting the bushes on my right, the now light music from the guitar of whoever is playing it at the restaurant above to my right. Then I open my eyes and do visual meditation. I can’t help but do thoughts meditation, too. I allow all the people parade through my mind, who I wish could have been here with me to take in all this beauty, enjoy the vistas, the food, the music, the culture… I am lucky to know many such dear people in my life. I hope I can come back here with some of them…

Another colonial structure in Barranco 

Time to find the way to the music above. I discover that I have to pass to the other side of the street first, climb up the stairs to the bridge, cross the bridge to the upper level of the street to get to the Mercer church. It looks like the church is blocking the way to where the music was coming from. But wait a minute, there is a big crowd walking on the narrow sidewalk by the south side of the church, which looks like is the direction I want to go.

Pacific from the restaurant Acantilado de Barranco

 

I am expecting I will find a huge restaurant there, looking at the crowd going in and coming out through this passage.  I join the crowd and sure enough, it leads me to exactly where I wanted to be! I interpret the circular area where the music is going on and the people crowd in close contact must be the bar since the dinner seats on the porch are mostly empty. Soon I discover that this circular area no bigger than 30 feet in diameter is in fact a public space! Free lance musicians come and play their music and get tips from the listening crowd. Constant entertainment for both strollers and restaurant clients. This is my spot for dinner.

Isn't it clear, I can't get enough of the Pacific Ocean? 

After touring the beautiful circle, I walk to the restaurant Acantilado de Barranco to sit at one of the tables, have dinner, and watch the crowd. To the disappointment of the waiter serving the tables on the porch, I notice the one table left on the balcony upstairs and ask the waiter if I could go up, sure enough. I am situated as the happiest camper for the evening. I turn my head slightly to the right, the coast all the way up to La Punta, the westernmost point in lima is before me. Turn my head slightly to the left, the Barranco coast line is pristine. Look straight ahead, the crowd below, gay and happy with music playing almost non-stop. All of a sudden young nuns flood the “stage”. I don’t know who they are, where they are from. But it is so sweet to see them taking the time to enjoy what the world has to offer them, too, outside their convent.

The most unimaginable shot: A group of nuns having fun in Barranco, the most hip place in Lima and memorializing this moment with a selfie!

They are clearly having fun, and I am happy for them. The most unimaginable thing happens. One of them takes out a selfie stick and calls everybody to gather for a selfie!!! And boy do they rush to be in that photo, even those, who must be older and perhaps the younger ones’ supervisors… I can’t help chuckling with joy. Everybody on the same balcony is happy, too! I get up and “con permisso” get closer to the table to the left and take a photo of these dear women taking a selfie of themselves… I will treasure it as one of the best photos of the trip.

In addition to ceviche, the most unforgettable flavor from Lima is its fruit juices..

I order a ceviche pescado. It is very good, as they say, wherever you have ceviche in Lima, it will taste good as long as the fish is fresh and it looks like it always is! After having so many ceviche dishes in Lima, I decide to change my ceviche recipe when I go back home.  One, I will add corn kernels to it and serve it with sweet potato! I should invite my close friends over for a ceviche and tradito night when I get back in August before I take off for Prague.
 

Before catching the bus back home, this is what I see, passionate Limenos poured into stone till infinity against a backdrop of the Pacific 

I take a bus back to my apartment now that I have perfected my understanding of the bus system in Lima at least related to routes that I need. Tomorrow, I will be amused with a Spanish speaking, probably local couple  when they approach and ask me about a particular bus, which happens to be my bus! I tell them what color bus and from what busstop to take down the avenue: I am becoming a Limena!

My server at the Oceanside restaurant wishes to take a picture of me and I pose...