I have
completed my expedition on El Morro and am now ready to descend to El Salto Del
Fraeil Restaurant, which I discovered from atop the mountain. It is literally right
on top of the Ocean! Just as I am debating whether I will have to use the main road
to get there or whether I can find a safe trail down, a family of bikers come
along my left side and speed away on what seems to be a network of bike trails
on the face of the hill.
A poor neighborhood with spectacular vistas to the south of El Morro in Chorrillos, their dog posing to me
El Salto Del Fraeil Restaurant where I will soon have lunch by the Pacific
Restaurant close up, beautiful structure
The family of bikers that helped me find the trail network leading to the coast
The view of Pacific coast from the window next to my table at El Salto Del Fraeil Restaurant
Eagle's Nest, Hitler's hideout in Berchtesgaden National Park in Germany
Local showman ready to jump into hostile waves of the Pacific for spectators, he meditates for several minutes before jumping, that may just be part of the show, too...?
Our diver wearing monk attire taking a break in front of the restaurant
From the coastal cliffs of Chorrillos looking down at the mini bay
Chorrillos and its northern neighbor Barranco
Pedro de Osma Museum from inner courtyard
This is where I left the upper coastal promenade and headed down the steps following locals not knowing I would find Puente dos Supiros, the infamous bridge of spiritis
Young violinists giving a delicious concert under the Puente dos Supiros
Iglesia de Mercer behind Puente dos Supiros
Another colonial structure in Barranco
Pacific from the restaurant Acantilado de Barranco
Isn't it clear, I can't get enough of the Pacific Ocean?
Before catching the bus back home, this is what I see, passionate Limenos poured into stone till infinity against a backdrop of the Pacific
I have come
to love decisions made in the spur of the moment; I leave the road and start hiking
down using the bike trails. On the meandering path, the restaurant is playing
hide and seek with me, but each time it emerges from around a boulder or a
cliff, it is closer, more reachable and more inviting. In 15 minutes I am in
the yard of the restaurant, a beautiful structure on top of a set of wild and
jagged boulders sticking out of the ocean. On both sides of it from the road,
is the wild Pacific beating up the rocky shore.
Entering the
facility, it looks like there are more servers than customers, but looking at
the few tables that are occupied, this is a restaurant frequented by locals
with money and taste. Despite my hiker attire, they treat me with respect, must
be my white hair, again. They ask me whether I am “sola?”. Part of it is to
decide on the size of the table they will assign me to, but from the expression
on the young server’s face I can tell, there is more to this innocent question:
Of course I
am an unusual creature for men of especially developing countries. Here is a
woman that looks like a granny with her white hair, who should be with her
grandchildren, taken care of by her sons and their wives, according to
developing country rhetoric. Instead here she is “sola” and with an unfitting
attire, too casual for the restaurant, tennis shoes, backpack, tights instead
of a dress, high heel shoes that the other two even elderly women in the
restaurant are wearing. I am lucky with my attire they don’t tell me “We have to
verify your credit card before allowing you in”! Again most likely out of respect
for grannies…
Kind people
of Peru, I hope I have established an example for other at least middle aged,
white haired hikers that even if one may look dusty, they may be allowed to eat
in a good restaurant in Lima! I ask them whether I can sit by the window, they
are happy to accommodate that, they might have been reassured to hear from my
limited Spanish that I am not Peruvian. Who knows, they might now say in their
minds “Oh, she must be a Gringa, all bets are off with Gringos…” I get a small
table adjacent to the window overlooking the boulder. My server is very accommodating
and opens the window for me. I’d like to listen to the sound of the ocean now
that I am right on top of it.
I wonder when
and how permission to build a restaurant here was obtained since it is the only
such structure as far as I can see in both directions. It is on top of wild and
harsh rocky coastal line; reminds me of the Eagle’s Nest in Southeast Germany
in the high mountains of the Berchtesgaden National Park, Hitler’s hideout, which
I had visited in 2005. However, this restaurant is situated on top of rocks where
the land ends and sea takes over rather than where the sky takes over as is the
case with Eagle’s Nest.
Lunch is
exquisite with tiradito, slices of fish in lime juice covered with aji chille
sauce. The only problem is it is too little! The waves clashing with the
boulders piercing into the bosom of the ocean then washing over what they have
just beat up as if streams of tears pouring down to their source lasting until
the next embrace of the ocean almost take me away from this world… My server “wakes”
me up and points out to the crowd down below on the mini cliff on which the
restaurant sits. Looking out the window, I see a man in brown clothes airborne
toward the water!
Restaurant from a distance, you can now understand why I reminisce it to Hitler's Eagle's Nest
Initially, I
wonder how in the world does he not freeze in this temperature, constantly
being wet to his bones? However, after several more jumps I will notice that he
has a wet suit underneath, that should make the difference. On my way out, I
will see him chatting with his buddies, who are vendors selling a variety of
nick knacks to local visitors, some of whom I assume come down here either only
to watch this man or just to enjoy the vistas from this very spot. I can tell,
they are all working class people…
Good thing, this
man still has a strong body despite his age (he seems to be in his late 30s-early 40s),
this love-hate relationship with the ocean, and the skill to win this fight
with it every time he jumps. At least he has, so far… I wonder with a
heartbreak if he likes this at all and if there will be a time that the ocean
may claim him… I start walking along the Chorrillos coastal line, which is
gradually climbing up to the northernmost hillside of El Morro, before it
starts descending toward Barranco.
On my way to
Barranco I visit a private museum, Pedro de Osma Museum and MATE. I am not much
impressed with either: The former is a private museum filled with Spanish era
art full of and limited to religious and royal themes in the main house, all from 16th to 19th century. However, it has a small Andean collection, and a sizeable silver and gold collection,
which are worth seeing. The more museums I visit in Peru, the more I understand
why public museums are not that impressive. Private hands reached the earth
much earlier than the government is the summary of what happened:
The good
intentioned Peruvian private hands established foundations and museums in their
own name and opened this treasure to visitors in their own country, kudos to
them. Non-Peruvian collectors with probably some local collaborators let the
treasure of this land reach foreign hands, hence Louvre, Metropolitan, British
Museum, and Berlin museums have sizeable collections of South American
cultures.
MATE on the
other hand is a museum where Mario Testino, a Peruvian photographer, who
apparently photographed many celebrities including Princess Diana. Of all
museums, least impressive for me, if you are short on time, easily skip this
one. Barranco is another story! I just happened to it without knowing how I was going to explore it. There could be no better way to explore it, now that all is said and done: I am on the highest point of Chorrillos adjoining Barranco.
I can see there is a
mini-valley between the hillside I am on and the next one, which should be
Barranco proper. I can see there is a very interesting spot at the tip of the
next cliff, on which there seems to be a restaurant or bar, in the yard of which
some intriguing music is going on. I happen to
see stairs going down the cliff I am on. A few people are going down the stairs
and I follow always trusting local people choosing the best places of their
own.
One of the murals on the walls surrounding the staircase leading to Puente dos Supiros
Good decision, I will find out soon. The steps turn into a lovely passage in fact surrounded with paintings on the walls, leading me to probably one of the most exciting places in Barranco. Street art with vendors displaying their art on blankets/tarps laid out right on the street on both sides line up a street some 0.5 km long underneath the Puente dos Supiros! Without knowing I was going there, I have found the bridge: Very simple but apparently favored by all alike. Very few non-locals are around, looking at appearances…
The street running below Puente dos Supiros is lined by local artists selling their creation on simple table tops or canvas spreads
I happen upon several classical music concerts by young talented musicians, two violin players, one flute player, and another violin player along with a recorded orchestral music… Coins rain down on them at the end of each mini-concert they deliver. I enter what seems to be the most promising dinner venue, but no, as I pass through the terrace, the ambiance is not what I thought it would be. I want to be able to see the ocean. The very tip of the terrace with the ocean view is open for everybody’s strolling and enjoyment. That is good. No tables there, but there is trail going up higher on the cliff covered with thick grass and I take it. After the first terrace there is yet another passage to the last terrace, which actually takes me right adjacent to where the music was coming from!
Good decision, I will find out soon. The steps turn into a lovely passage in fact surrounded with paintings on the walls, leading me to probably one of the most exciting places in Barranco. Street art with vendors displaying their art on blankets/tarps laid out right on the street on both sides line up a street some 0.5 km long underneath the Puente dos Supiros! Without knowing I was going there, I have found the bridge: Very simple but apparently favored by all alike. Very few non-locals are around, looking at appearances…
The street running below Puente dos Supiros is lined by local artists selling their creation on simple table tops or canvas spreads
I happen upon several classical music concerts by young talented musicians, two violin players, one flute player, and another violin player along with a recorded orchestral music… Coins rain down on them at the end of each mini-concert they deliver. I enter what seems to be the most promising dinner venue, but no, as I pass through the terrace, the ambiance is not what I thought it would be. I want to be able to see the ocean. The very tip of the terrace with the ocean view is open for everybody’s strolling and enjoyment. That is good. No tables there, but there is trail going up higher on the cliff covered with thick grass and I take it. After the first terrace there is yet another passage to the last terrace, which actually takes me right adjacent to where the music was coming from!
However,
there is a high and tight fence consisting of poles, metal heavy chicken wire,
and bushes! Can hear the music, but can’t see anything. That is OK, although my
next move will be to find the way to get there, first I will devour this
beautiful view and quiet and meditate. I am pleased that the hustle bustle of
the street below is not able to reach up here. I am two “floors above the tip
of the cliff where some of the visitors are strolling to enjoy the vistas.
Pacific Ocean from the cliff to the north of the Puente dos Supiros
Their marveling at the view is a whisper to my ears. I can even hear the soar of the ocean from such a distance. No wonder Limenos are so sensual, how can one not in this city with such vistas such stimulation of all senses with sounds, visuals, and touch… Everybody is so warm and expressive. Whenever I ask for directions, they touch my arm or back to show me the direction. I feel comfortable touching someone’s arm or shoulder taking leave of them… It feels like home…
Their marveling at the view is a whisper to my ears. I can even hear the soar of the ocean from such a distance. No wonder Limenos are so sensual, how can one not in this city with such vistas such stimulation of all senses with sounds, visuals, and touch… Everybody is so warm and expressive. Whenever I ask for directions, they touch my arm or back to show me the direction. I feel comfortable touching someone’s arm or shoulder taking leave of them… It feels like home…
I close my
eyes for a while and meditate with the sounds of the ocean, the chirps of the
birds frequenting the bushes on my right, the now light music from the guitar
of whoever is playing it at the restaurant above to my right. Then I open my
eyes and do visual meditation. I can’t help but do thoughts meditation, too. I
allow all the people parade through my mind, who I wish could have been here
with me to take in all this beauty, enjoy the vistas, the food, the music, the
culture… I am lucky to know many such dear people in my life. I hope I can come
back here with some of them…
Time to find
the way to the music above. I discover that I have to pass to the other side of
the street first, climb up the stairs to the bridge, cross the bridge to the
upper level of the street to get to the Mercer church. It looks like the church
is blocking the way to where the music was coming from. But wait a minute, there
is a big crowd walking on the narrow sidewalk by the south side of the church,
which looks like is the direction I want to go.
I am expecting
I will find a huge restaurant there, looking at the crowd going in and coming
out through this passage. I join the
crowd and sure enough, it leads me to exactly where I wanted to be! I interpret
the circular area where the music is going on and the people crowd in close
contact must be the bar since the dinner seats on the porch are mostly empty. Soon
I discover that this circular area no bigger than 30 feet in diameter is in
fact a public space! Free lance musicians come and play their music and get
tips from the listening crowd. Constant entertainment for both strollers and
restaurant clients. This is my spot for dinner.
After touring
the beautiful circle, I walk to the restaurant Acantilado de Barranco to sit at one of the tables,
have dinner, and watch the crowd. To the disappointment of the waiter serving
the tables on the porch, I notice the one table left on the balcony upstairs
and ask the waiter if I could go up, sure enough. I am situated as the happiest
camper for the evening. I turn my head slightly to the right, the coast all the
way up to La Punta, the westernmost point in lima is before me. Turn my head
slightly to the left, the Barranco coast line is pristine. Look straight ahead,
the crowd below, gay and happy with music playing almost non-stop. All of a
sudden young nuns flood the “stage”. I don’t know who they are, where they are
from. But it is so sweet to see them taking the time to enjoy what the world
has to offer them, too, outside their convent.
The most unimaginable shot: A group of nuns having fun in Barranco, the most hip place in Lima and memorializing this moment with a selfie!
They are clearly having fun, and I am happy for them. The most unimaginable thing happens. One of them takes out a selfie stick and calls everybody to gather for a selfie!!! And boy do they rush to be in that photo, even those, who must be older and perhaps the younger ones’ supervisors… I can’t help chuckling with joy. Everybody on the same balcony is happy, too! I get up and “con permisso” get closer to the table to the left and take a photo of these dear women taking a selfie of themselves… I will treasure it as one of the best photos of the trip.
In addition to ceviche, the most unforgettable flavor from Lima is its fruit juices..
I order a ceviche pescado. It is very good, as they say, wherever you have ceviche in Lima, it will taste good as long as the fish is fresh and it looks like it always is! After having so many ceviche dishes in Lima, I decide to change my ceviche recipe when I go back home. One, I will add corn kernels to it and serve it with sweet potato! I should invite my close friends over for a ceviche and tradito night when I get back in August before I take off for Prague.
They are clearly having fun, and I am happy for them. The most unimaginable thing happens. One of them takes out a selfie stick and calls everybody to gather for a selfie!!! And boy do they rush to be in that photo, even those, who must be older and perhaps the younger ones’ supervisors… I can’t help chuckling with joy. Everybody on the same balcony is happy, too! I get up and “con permisso” get closer to the table to the left and take a photo of these dear women taking a selfie of themselves… I will treasure it as one of the best photos of the trip.
In addition to ceviche, the most unforgettable flavor from Lima is its fruit juices..
I order a ceviche pescado. It is very good, as they say, wherever you have ceviche in Lima, it will taste good as long as the fish is fresh and it looks like it always is! After having so many ceviche dishes in Lima, I decide to change my ceviche recipe when I go back home. One, I will add corn kernels to it and serve it with sweet potato! I should invite my close friends over for a ceviche and tradito night when I get back in August before I take off for Prague.
I take a bus
back to my apartment now that I have perfected my understanding of the bus
system in Lima at least related to routes that I need. Tomorrow, I will be amused
with a Spanish speaking,
probably local couple when they approach and ask me about a particular bus, which happens to be my bus! I tell them what color bus and from what busstop to take
down the avenue: I am becoming a Limena!
 |
| My server at the Oceanside restaurant wishes to take a picture of me and I pose... |
