Saturday, February 2, 2013

PORTUGAL IN WINTER: UNEXPECTED TORNADO

PORTUGAL IN WINTER: UNEXPECTED TORNADO

Early in the morning, I witness yet, another adorable aspect of Portuguese people or is it only in o Porto? Jose will come pick me up at 7:10 to take me to the station so that I can catch my train at 7:45. I am ready at the lobby at 6:50. The tall slender gentleman at the reception greets me and asks me if somebody is picking me up. After I tell him the plan, he has an anxious look on his face. He reports, the gate to the campus doesn't open until 8 am! O-ooo, that is not good. What are we going to do? He makes couple of phone calls, no solution. I am ready to go to the gate with him, for sure Jose must be out there not knowing what to do. But the receptionist is extremely anxious about the weather. He doesn't want to take me out in this "horrible and dangerous weather". I don't quite understand, all I see is that there is a bit of wind and it is raining. Portuguese, enjoying pleasant weather conditions throughout the year, I guess, are so spoiled a bit of disruption becomes a storm for them. I recall, Teresa's worried face about the anticipation of terrible weather from last night. We had even discussed whether Francine's flight to Netherlands would be delayed out of o Porto or not, Teresa thought not since the "storm" was expected to end before noon. I even asked if there is any expectation that trains may be delayed. Teresa dismissed this possibility with confidence. Good, "trust the locals" has always been my motto in all my international travels.

So, after a full night's storm that I heard none of, this must be it. I still do not understand how bad  it could be, though, not knowing what is lying ahead of me that will make this a day from 6:30 am until 5 am the next morning. Well, being the local, he is the boss; he tells me, he will go to the gate under the rain and wind and let Jose in. I will wait in the warmth of the casa and he will save me the bad trip. Sweet man. As soon as he leaves, I leave a note on his desk with my thanks and a generous tip, I know he won't take it if I give it to him face to face. That is how people in o Porto are, still living with the beautiful small town mentality with utmost hospitality that in large cities, I crave for. After my many many "muyt obrigada"s and a warm hug, one good man with a smile on his face hands me to another good man, Jose, with yet another smile on his face, who will see to it that I not only get to my train but into my compartment and will even make sure my luggage is placed securely. He gets a warm hug, too, how in the world can I not give heart-felt hugs to such good people?

 
Alfa train between Lisboa and o Porto, on the way to gave me a heaven, on the way back, something of a hell

I start working on my travel diary right away and notice that the train has left late, only when it moves around 8:15 instead of 7:45. I am curious about why for a second, but somehow I am so calm, don't inquire too  much; will find out soon and gradually it will dawn on me how severe a weather Portugal is capable of experiencing that I never foresaw. Gradually the meaning of the red alarm Teresa had mentioned the night before starts sinking in. I couldn't understand then what could be lying ahead, when it seemed like all there was, was a drizzle of rain and 10 km/hour or so of wind. Now the news comes in in bits and pieces as the train moves forward at 20 km/h instead of its usual 140-150. Our conductor and his assistant bring new information as it becomes available: Cables have been knocked down across the railroad, all trains are delayed or stuck in inappropriate locations blocking the way for the alfa train. Initially, we expect all will be good; The assistant to the conductor tells me "Don't worry we'll get you to LIsbon today". Today? That is nto good enough for me my friend, I must be there before 1 pm. He changes his rhetoric "Even with a 2 hour delay, you will be fine". I do hope so, I must to save all involved a lot of trouble. 


These were the kind of waves I saw through the window of my cabin on alfa train, certainly no surfers were in sight

The brief stretch that the railway runs right along the ocean gives me a good idea on what happened the night before and what still is happening. The ocean has swelled up through the night. I have never seen this side of Atlantic this swelled up, no wonder, I have never been to Portugal in the winter time. The waves are huge, about ten feet high, the entire ocean is thrusting itself with non-stop waves of surf beating up the beach. Vineyards and orange orchards have flooded to the south of o Porto all the way to Coimbra, to which we finally  manage to get around 11 am. Some severe weather did indeed take place, perhaps not in o Porto but very nearby is my initial daignosis not knowing what else I will witness, yet. Fortunately, my flight is at 2:55, so if, we manage to leave Coimbra at our usual pace soon, I still hope I can make it to my flight. How naive an expectation it will turn out to be, I don't know, yet.


Flooded fields looked exactly like this
At around 11:30, I decide to call Teresa and let her know of the situation so that I can get an insider's guidance. The best thing I did all morning. When I finally reach her, she tells me she is sending a driver from Coimbra to drive me to Lisbon. This decision is simultaneous with the assistant conductor bringing the news about the fallen trees from the storm blocking the railroad system. Wow, trees have fallen down, too, what is awaiting me, my goodness. Am I going to be able to make it to my flight? I am just a bit anxious now... meditation helps. The lovely assistant conductor, with an impeccable English helps me with my luggage and takes me to the meeting point. In 20 minutes the driver will meet me at the ticket office. Alas, by the time another good soul comes to pick me up it is 1 o'clock. He assures me that in 1.5 hours we will be at the airport. Knowing that my flight is already delayed to 3:30 calms me down a bit, just a bit.  



The roads I was on turne dinto parking lot just like this, except that this picture is from inland hit by the same storm that crippled all of Western Europe on Jan 20th 

I start losing hope as we head south; we spend half an hour to cover a stretch of couple of kms, another in yet another strecth. the more we travel, the more I realize the graveness of the situation. Tres lying on the highway, some cut and put aside, some still brushing the surface, tree batches with their tops torn and thrown... It downs on me that Portugal had a tornado last night. Whenever he can, my driver Raul hits the floor with the gas pedal driving at 160 even 180 km/hour. I wonder if this will be my end, not in the storm with his driving. But I can't tell him, slow down. Eventually, we arrive at the airport at 3 pm. Sure enough, the check-in booth has closed for the day for Turkish Airlines (TA). I go to the ticket booth. Check-in is out of the question, since it was closed at 2:15, Zeynep, the wonderful Turkish woman, who works for TA tells me. OK, I understand, I have traveled enough to know that once check-in is closed it is indeed closed, nothing can reverse it. There is talk that the flight may be canceled anyway due to weather conditions. I tell her my story. If I can't get to Turkey tonight, I will lose my chance to fly to the USA tomorrow as well. She is checking all alternatives, she is very helpful.

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