Burgazada: So close to Istanbul but so far away in all aspects of thought and existence... Its homes, its nature, its cultural and ethnic composition, its sounds-mostly of the nature, its people's interaction with one another, its organization of life on it, its perception of itself... I will spend four days on this island filling in a gap between two conferences I was invited to in Istanbul. 
The only prince island I had been to was the Buyukada (Big island). It just happened that the opportunity presented itself to me when I was visiting Turkey on a professional visit, to also visit the other major 3 islands taking the Burgaz island as my hub. I am very excited to visit the Burgazada, which I had heard to be the most pristine and untouched of all. In Turkish, these islands are called just "The Islands" (Adalar) not The Prince Islands as they are called in English literature.
Adalar are an archipelago off the coast of Istanbul, Turkey, in the Sea of Marmara, constituting the Adalar district of Istanbul Province with a distinct municipality of its own. The four larger islands are Büyükada (5.5 km2), Heybeliada (Island with Saddlebag - 2.4 km2), Burgazada (Fortress Island -1.5 km2), Kınalıada (Island with Henna -1.3 km2). The archipelago includes five much smaller islands, Sedef Adası (Mother-of-Pearl Island), Yassıada (Flat Island), Sivriada (Sharp Island), Kaşık Adası (Spoon Island), and Tavşan Adası (Rabbit Island).
Of these, Buyukada has always been in society's awareness due to its size and touristic commercialization. Yassiada was introduced to the larger public discourse via imprisoning the post World- War II corrupt pri-minister Adnan Menderes on this island until he was executed by hanging, which has always been a controversial issue in Turkish history. Lastly, Sait Faik Abasiyanik, a very significant literary figure in the history of Turkish literature introduced Burgazada into our awareness.
I will discover a lot of new information on a few of the islands. A fisherman I will chat with on the dock will tell me the following unbelievable story: a Jewish man had obtained from the governments of the past 99 years of use of the Spoon Island. After 40 years, he transferred his right to Ali Dinckok and his associates. This group applied for state loans in 1980s in order to establish a very big tourism complex on the Spoon Island, which he was granted. However, good people of Turkey and the global green movement went to court since this complex would ruin not only that very island but also the entire archipelago. Mr. Dinckok fought first and foremost that he wouldn't have to pay interest on the money he had already received from the government.
The trial lasted 9 years, while incompetent governments of Turkey did not request the loan to be kept in an account off of which the state would get the interest. Ali Dinckok on the other hand enjoyed 63% interest rates of the 9 years while he was being tried. With such huge income, he established AkMerkez, which is the largest shopping mall in Turkey. When the trial was finally over with his victory, he decided he wouldn't bother with his tourism complex. He built a mansion and a living complex on the island and returned the loan in full back to the government with all his earnings of the prior 9 years! Now, The Spoon island is off limits for the public, protected by multiple guards on its accessible coves.
Dinckok's living complex is hidden in the woods of higher grounds on the island, which I will be able to see only from the highest point of Burgazada during my hikes in the next couple of days. The Mother-of-pearl Island is also claimed by another set of entrepreneurs, the sibling owners of Club Catamaran Mehmet Birgen and Esra Birgen. Supposedly, this island was inherited by them through their grandfather, who owned this island. The only public accessibility on this island is along the coastal promenade, the rest of the island being a gated community. Another interesting and heartbreaking fact about the Sharp island is that, in 1970s the government decided to use the island as a quarry and reduced the island to half its size above the water to use the stones in order to construct a wave breaker in front of one of the docks in Istanbul! How short-sighted can one be? In Turkey, unfortunately this is the norm, has always been...
Traveling to Adalar is very easy, thanks to the wealthy that established their mostly second homes on the islands to move to for their primary residence in their old age. The City Boats Company conveniently allows access to all four major islands, Kinali, Burgaz, Heybeli, and Buyukada from multiple docks on both banks of Bosphorus: Kabatas, Karakoy and Besiktas docks on the European bank and Kadikoy and Bostanci on the Asian bank. If one would consider combining the Sea Bus Company's schedule with City Boat Company's, it would even be possible to fly into Ataturk Airport and come to Adalar all the way from Bakirkoy with a transfer on one of the City Boat docks.
I woke up this morning and took a taxi from Taksim to Kabatas, a brief ten minute ride. My boat is already at the dock, but I have 1.5 hours to kill until our departure. I purchase the coin I will need to get on the boat from one of the machines at the entrance. I head toward the waterfront to explore this stretch of the Bosphorus. In half a kilometer, I find a waterfront cafe, the seating of which is spread under an awning. It is very inviting since I know this ambience will let me take in all the pleasures Istanbul may offer to me...
There is an early bird fisherman in front of me. He has a large plastic container to put his fish in and a small one out of which he fishes bait every now and then. At some point the fish pole bends forward with such force, even I get as excited as he does hoping to see a large fish after his skillful efforts come to a peaceful end. Alas it is seaweed, a large piece, perhaps with the force fo the current in Bosphorus, he is used to such fake hits... What I love most though by the water, especially at this early hour of the day is the seagulls:
They are the most cheerful, busy, and elegant creatures in the nature. Especially where there are fishermen and thus, fish, they create a symphony, ballet, and opera all in one show! Here comes on chirping her invitational melody to which several others join in out of nowhere and she dives into the water and comes out with a small fish in her beak in no time. Others hover over the water still. Here comes another just gliding over the Bosphorus with full span of her wings as elegantly as a ballet dancer. Others playfully fly now in this direction, now in the other... It is pure meditation to watch them in synchrony with their fellows, with the fishermen, with the cats, with other birds, and most importantly with their prey; the fish...
After I take the last sip from my Turkish tea I head toward the waiting lounge of the dock. It is much cleaner and tidier than in the past at this early hour of the day. I sit next to a middle aged woman. When her cell phone rings, I realize she is either Jewish or Greek or Armenian, one of the largest minorities in Istanbul other than Kurdish, her accent is telling. I know that Adalar have traditionally been inhabited by the wealthy minorities of Istanbul for centuries. I will learn during the next few days that most start with a summer home when young, which becomes their permanent residence as they age.
Historic old town on the other side...
They lure the young in the family to come to the islands over the weekends, and within several decades, the aging young follow suit. I will also meet people living on the islands due to the oppressive ethnic pressures of the post WWII era or the political pressures of the post-military coup era of the 70s or 80s. Adalar is a magical option for those who can't live in Istanbul but still would like to remain in its vicinity. As we head toward Kadikoy on the Asian bank, we leave the first Bosphorus bridge on our left, which brings Maiden's Tower island to view off of Kadikoy coast.
Mermaid's island...
Selimiye military complex, Haydarpasa hospital and train station are the next on Kadikoy skyline among all the distracting modern buildings. It is pleasant to see my friend Aytul wave at me from the dock, out first get together after a year of hiatus. Aytul and her high school friends, a total of 24 are here to have their annual class reunion and I plugged into the group when I was trying to fill in the gap between two conferences. As soon as Aytul and her two friends join me, Sevgi, one of her friends, an architect, brings a tray of tea glasses with fuming hot Turkish tea.
Gevrek, which is a traditional baked savory food similar to bagel that Aytul brought along has sunflower seeds instead of sesame seeds; a novelty for me, a delicious one at that. Our first stop is Kinali island in just 20 minutes, in another 15 minutes is our final destination Burgaz. Unbelievable uniqueness of Istanbul! This is a city that may drown on-the-ground-travelers in its at times nearly still traffic. Yet, if you plan wisely, you may move away from from the suffocating concrete blocks of the city and arrive at this paradise in just half an hour. The alien but luring world still very close but also as far away as one can imagine.
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| Gevrek -Istanbul style... |
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