I wake up around
7 am after only 6 hours of sleep this morning, my third full day in Prague.
Apparently the jet lag is over and I am up and about before 8. I prepare a
healthy breakfast with multi grain toasted bread, cheese, tomatoes, and
banana. I am ready to cross the river and explore the castle complex and
beyond. To get there early, I decide to take the tram for the first time since
my arrival in the city. Tram 22 is very easy to catch and takes me all the way
to the castle gate!
One of the magnificent stain glass windows at the Cathedral in the Castle
I am always mesmerized with the architecture in Gothic buildings, Cathedral is no different...
The ceiling of the Basilica of George
Golden Lane consists of multiple side-by-side cottages, once the lane where all goldsmiths were located in the castle
Seamstress' room on Golden Lane, note how small the bed is!
Military paraphernalia on display in the hallway stretching almost the entire length of Golden Lane
The upper stories
of all the cottages are united into one big hallway that displays military
artifacts as well as torture devices. Dalibor Tower at the east end of the lane
was used as a dungeon and a torture site, looking at the torture devices
displayed. Again, my blood boils with recognition of how cruel mankind had been
in the past, and still can be in parts of the world, even in the jails of known
to be democratic countries if one looks deeply into them: Recall, the movie
“sleepers”.
Torture chamber in the Tower of the Castle
Beautiful Vltava River from the Petrin Tower
Castle still impressive as I climb down the stairs of Petrin Tower
But, when all this has not happened yet, and I am not aware of his mischief, I love the color contrast. I tell him about my photograph from the first
snow of last year that is my most favorite: Sky, lake, and ground all white at
Terry Trueblood Park except for the faint blue railing of the terrace of the
Lodge by the lake. He listens to my story attentively and adds very justly so
“But you can’t add the feelings to a photograph, can you?” I tell him “Well,
those go into words, I wrote about it on my blog.”
My most favorite photograph I ever took: First snow of the year in Iowa in 2017, Christmas eve's day..
Another dinner in Prague right on the water, on the east promenade...
This is the view to the south from where I sit at the Vltava Restaurant
As the daylight disappears, this is what I see to my north...
Czech sweet trdelnik you find everywhere...
Sure enough, I sense the male server may more likely be gay. Just as I am getting ready to leave, a hand over my shoulder, I turn around, the hand’s owner is a beautiful Middle Eastern looking female with dark complexion, with hair full of white streaks. Her warm and friendly face with a big smile is asking “Your hair is beautiful, is it natural?” My must-be-surprised sounding voice answers “Yes.” I bet with a facial expression that must have conveyed to her “Why are you asking?” She quickly explains to me that her hair started graying very early on due to her genetics, she is only 38 and she does have too much white hair, true.
Another beautiful view of Vltava River from St. Nicholas Church Tower
I tell her, I also started having quite a bit of white hair as early as 25-26, which was cute initially, since it was a flock of white hair occupying my bangs. But in my early 30s, it got too much and I unfortunately had to start dying my hair, those were the days and culture in Turkey. She asks me how I let my hair grow white like this, I tell her, when I decided “No more dying” 5-6 years ago, over 8 months, I let the artificial color leave my body for good by constantly cutting it very short every month. She then tells me she wants her hair white just like mine. Well that will take time my friend. We both chuckle.
Can you tell I am almost obsessed with all phases of the river around the clock?
I enter the
complex before 10 am, boy will I be happy about this early start since only in
an hour, when I complete my visit to St. Vitus Cathedral, I will be astounded
to see that the entry line is a block long, already! This is the actual
cathedral that is the icon for Prague. A huge building the towers of which are
piercing the gloomy August sky over Prague. Most of the tourists I notice are
Asians. I hear occasional German, Portuguese, French, British and some American
accent, but Asians surpass even Slavik languages, most of which must come from other
Czechs. The cathedral is
a symbol of King Charles IVth again, who united the old town and the new town
into one state, who started building this monument in 1344. It is indeed a
monumental bulk of stone and steel, full of grace, I must admit. This 23 year-old
architect friend of Charles must have indeed had some taste and a lot of
competency in building forever lasting buildings. Ticket for the cathedral is
needed only to walk along its inner perimeter to visit all the statues for
those who are interested in religious history.
My internal tour of
St. Vitus Cathedral, which is externally very impressive but not so much
internally, is relatively brief and I head out to the Old Royal Palace. This is
a bit more intricate a structure, although externally it is not that
impressive. The construction started in the 12th century and was
expanded as the centuries went on. I heard from somebody that it is the oldest
presidential palace in Europe that is still in use with its original remains. Its
green room must have been named after the huge green stove in it, again floor
to ceiling. Vlatislav Hall has been used and still is being used for official
receptions, I hear. Chancellery room
catches my attention since it was the site of second defenestration in 1618.
Czech history is interesting, apparently, when there is a coup, the assailants
come to a meeting room and throw, literally throw the rulers that are toppled
down out the window!!! Hence, the term defenestration.
Freezing bride visiting the Castle and the Old Palace on her wedding, I don't find it that romantic, but I congratulate them with a smile...
I learn today, it didn’t happen once but twice, at least. The Deit Room, where the nobles met to discuss land ownership, taxation, and other justice matters has on display a portrait of Maria Antoinette’s mother, who was a Habsburg empress. The exit from the palace is via a steep and wide slope of cobblestoned lane that almost looks like a driveway. I learn later on that it was made so on purpose to allow knights to enter Vlatislav Hall on horseback for some form of tournaments. That’s quite a visual image for you…
I learn today, it didn’t happen once but twice, at least. The Deit Room, where the nobles met to discuss land ownership, taxation, and other justice matters has on display a portrait of Maria Antoinette’s mother, who was a Habsburg empress. The exit from the palace is via a steep and wide slope of cobblestoned lane that almost looks like a driveway. I learn later on that it was made so on purpose to allow knights to enter Vlatislav Hall on horseback for some form of tournaments. That’s quite a visual image for you…
From there I head
to the Basilica of George, which is a beautiful old Gothic church. Its
construction apparently started in 920, which makes it the oldest church in the
castle, and perhaps one of the oldest ones in Europe. When I check the
internet, I learn that at least 20 oldest churches in the world were built in
the 3rd and 4th centuries, perhaps I need to withdraw my
above assumption. Early forbearers of Premyslid Dynasty that is an important
one in Czech history are buried within the basilica grounds.
Golden Lane
becomes the most interesting part of the castle for me. It is a narrow lane,
probably named as such because it was the site of goldsmiths who set up shop on
this lane for a time. The lane is lined with one row of over 20 small, I mean
small shops/rooms, that were initially the residences for Emperor Rudolph II’s
guards. The two rooms furnished as the residence of a seamstress and herbalist are
both perhaps 6x8 feet. The bed occupies one of the walls, probably 2-2.5
ft wide. A small china cabinet, table
and a few chairs are the only other furniture in the room. To both sides of the
entrance are two alcoves, one to be used as the bathroom with a chamber pot,
and the other as storage space.
None had running
water or other hygienic needs met on site, even later on during the last century, there were only two
bathrooms for the entire “neighborhood”. After the 17th
century, goldsmiths, masons, and other craftsmen inhabited the lane. People
like Kafka (#22) and film historian Josef Kavda (#12) lived here for a while in
the 20th century until 1952, when the lane became a designated
historic site. Of course I didn’t miss the opportunity of watching in his
cottage, the black and white silent movies that Kavda had saved.
My next stop is
Loretta square and church. This is a unique church built in 18th
century, which is dedicated to Mary. The cubic ornate structure in the middle
of the courtyard is reported to be a reproduction of her residence in Nazareth,
hence the name Santa Casa. Upstairs in the treasury behind merely a thin glass
is a sunburst-style monstrance, reportedly studded with 6,222 diamonds, some of
which are as big as a large chick-pea! Imagine under what circumstances the
populace was living in Europe when the clergy was accumulating this kind of
wealth just for appearances and power. Time to refresh a
bit out in the nature to recover from all this religious themed heaviness. I
head to Petrin Hill. On the way to the hill, I cross the courtyard of the
Strahov Monastery, which was founded in 1143 by Premonstratensian Order, the
existence of which I was unaware until this trip!
Santa Casa in the courtyard of Loretta Church
The monks and nuns here are known with their dedication to art, knowledge, and beer brewing. They must indeed be truly devoted to the institution, since generation after generation they helped the monastery survive numerous dynasties, imperialist fervor as well as communist oppression, and here we are the institution and its devotees are still alive…
The monks and nuns here are known with their dedication to art, knowledge, and beer brewing. They must indeed be truly devoted to the institution, since generation after generation they helped the monastery survive numerous dynasties, imperialist fervor as well as communist oppression, and here we are the institution and its devotees are still alive…
Petrin tower is
calling my name and I feel I have had enough exposure to religion and its
related philosophies for one day, I move on. In 15 minutes I am climbing the
steps of the Petrin Tower, which is a smaller sister of Eifel tower, after
which it was modeled.
Part of the Monastery Complex
I can’t begin to tell you how much I regret that I didn’t climb up the Eifel Tower when in Paris. I hope I will have a second chance… I had the best of the best of vistas up on top of Petrin Tower. Although I will try the St. Nicholas Church’s Belfry tower, which was built in the 17th century after I get down via the funicular, it will be nothing like the experience from the Petrin Tower. Petrin Tower, which is located on top of the highest hill overlooking the Vltava River commands everything about Prague circumferentially. One can view the river for miles and miles in both directions and savor the beauty of how it meanders between both sides of Charles Bridge. I circle Petrin Tower's deck multiple times at slow pace to take in everything I can. Not only the deck but also the twisting staircase provides the best of the views, exposing to the visitors a different section of Prague at every turn.
I can’t begin to tell you how much I regret that I didn’t climb up the Eifel Tower when in Paris. I hope I will have a second chance… I had the best of the best of vistas up on top of Petrin Tower. Although I will try the St. Nicholas Church’s Belfry tower, which was built in the 17th century after I get down via the funicular, it will be nothing like the experience from the Petrin Tower. Petrin Tower, which is located on top of the highest hill overlooking the Vltava River commands everything about Prague circumferentially. One can view the river for miles and miles in both directions and savor the beauty of how it meanders between both sides of Charles Bridge. I circle Petrin Tower's deck multiple times at slow pace to take in everything I can. Not only the deck but also the twisting staircase provides the best of the views, exposing to the visitors a different section of Prague at every turn.
Time to go back
again via Charles Bridge. On the bridge I bump into him again, a man in his
late 30s, early 40s, a photographer, who sells various views of Prague
photographed by him with all the Prague moods displayed on his station. I like
a black and white one with views of the east end of Charles Bridge. He is interested in showing me other black and
whites. When he pulls out the one I will eventually purchase, I know that is
it! It is another
black and white view of the same area except that there is a tram entering the
bridge and it is the only part of the photograph that has color other than
black and white.
The castle is much more impressive from Petrin Tower
I fall in love with it right away, only to wake up from this love affair, when I realize, it is not the natural view of the bridge as I wake up the following morning: The bridge has only foot traffic nowadays. Then I recall him mumbling "Some people don't like it". I will mumble then "He was referring to the fact that he inserted this tram on the bridge...". I will then return it and get another foggy spring day view of the same area that looks very mystical and natural...
I fall in love with it right away, only to wake up from this love affair, when I realize, it is not the natural view of the bridge as I wake up the following morning: The bridge has only foot traffic nowadays. Then I recall him mumbling "Some people don't like it". I will mumble then "He was referring to the fact that he inserted this tram on the bridge...". I will then return it and get another foggy spring day view of the same area that looks very mystical and natural...
He asks for my
blog’s address. I ask him about his family. He is originally from Bulgaria,
came to Prague 20 years ago, married a Czech woman, took some photography and
architecture courses at the Charles University, but resolved to doing this. He
takes photographs of the city in the morning and at night and sells them from
mid-day till 8-10 pm depending on the business. He has two children with his
“Czech wife”. Good luck to you and to your family Jasen (Czech pronunciation
Yuhssen)… I will think of you every time I go downstairs in my house, where the photograph I bought from you is hanging on the wall.
When I leave the
bridge, I decide to go back to the apartment, pick up my lap top and find a
waterfront café and enjoy the last bit of Prague before the conference starts tomorrow.
This time I go to the south of my apartment and I do find a lovely café, Vltava
Restaurant right by the water. They have
installed a bench as long as the length of this old barrack-turned-to-restaurant.
Every so often they have screwed an L-shaped post on top of which sits a 2x2 square
foot wooden table. The tables cannot accommodate more than two, which is fine
with me.
I set up shop,
order a dark beer, people of Prague are big on beer and I am doing as Romans
do, when in Rome. Fried calamari is not as good as beer, but it goes together
OK, the shrimp I order later tastes much better. Swans come and go to the pier,
the water is only 20 feet away from where I am; people come and go, a friend of
mine attending the same conference as I will tomorrow, comes and goes after
some chat, words on my computer come and stay…
Daylight
gradually goes away, I pay, take a zigzag stroll around the river crisscrossing
it on couple of bridges, and just as I think I should call it the day and the
trip to Prague, my stomach says otherwise “I am still not full enough and there
is that Esterella vegetarian restaurant close to home, let’s try that”. Tummy
wins and after meandering through a maze of streets, thanks to my city maps app,
I find it in a hole in the wall, but what a pleasant hole, full of lovely young
people, and some of them might be gay. Happy to see there is tolerance and
space to gays in Prague.
Sure enough, I sense the male server may more likely be gay. Just as I am getting ready to leave, a hand over my shoulder, I turn around, the hand’s owner is a beautiful Middle Eastern looking female with dark complexion, with hair full of white streaks. Her warm and friendly face with a big smile is asking “Your hair is beautiful, is it natural?” My must-be-surprised sounding voice answers “Yes.” I bet with a facial expression that must have conveyed to her “Why are you asking?” She quickly explains to me that her hair started graying very early on due to her genetics, she is only 38 and she does have too much white hair, true.
I tell her, I also started having quite a bit of white hair as early as 25-26, which was cute initially, since it was a flock of white hair occupying my bangs. But in my early 30s, it got too much and I unfortunately had to start dying my hair, those were the days and culture in Turkey. She asks me how I let my hair grow white like this, I tell her, when I decided “No more dying” 5-6 years ago, over 8 months, I let the artificial color leave my body for good by constantly cutting it very short every month. She then tells me she wants her hair white just like mine. Well that will take time my friend. We both chuckle.
So does the young
woman behind her, who has been smiling kindly all along. They look so alike, I
ask them whether they are sisters or friends. The one who will introduce
herself as Bajha states they are partners. She then almost apologetically
explains “It is weird, we don’t know how
to explain our relationship”. I assure them “Just like how you did it “We are
partners” and that is that". It is lovely to see the relief and comfort on their
faces still smiling warmly. They are from Bahrein and full of ambitions for
women’s rights, respect and democracy for everybody and all. I bet, had we met
at the beginning of our dinners, we could have talked a lot more, but they are
on their way out.
This church through the east entrance to Charles Bridge somehow infatuated me throughout my stay...
I am pleased that
I listened to my stomach’s request and met these two lovely women on their way
to moving to Prague to do better work both for themselves and for their
country, just like I tried to do couple decades ago! When I walk out and toward my neighborhood, I notice
that there are many such holes in the wall in this maze, in front of some of
which are clearly gay men sitting, chatting, smoking… By chance, I might have
found one of the gay hangout areas in Prague! I feel connected with these people. Is it because, in my immigration to the USA, I also felt discriminated against at times, although very subtly? Not in social connections since I live in Iowa City, one of the most democratic and diverse communities in the USA, but definitely at work... How many times I felt "Had I been an American born and bred man, this would not have been as difficult as it is..."? I bet that is the reason why my heart goes to any section of the society that finds themselves in disadvantaged conditions... Be happy good people of Prague…
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| The Vltava River along the New Town |
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| Swans are all along the river in Prague |
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